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“I want to speak about the social impact of growing vanilla in Uganda” says Anya Dale, creative buyer at Lush. “For many years, conversations around vanilla focused heavily on the trade challenges and instability the sector has experienced and is likely to experience again. I think it’s equally important to address the positive aspects of vanilla production.”

Anya sources natural extracts and aromatic compounds for Lush – all those wonderfully scented ingredients that make up the iconic fragrances of our products.

Whenever possible, she visits suppliers in person, as there’s nothing better than direct, authentic contact for building lasting relationships. In spring 2023, she travelled to Uganda to meet the farmers, cooperatives, and curing facilities connected to the vanilla we source.

“One of the most memorable moments”, she recalls, “was sitting beneath the trees with farmers, sharing stories and learning about the patience and care that vanilla cultivation requires. When it rained, it really poured, and afterwards the air carried a freshness difficult to describe: earthy, green, humid, and clean all at once. The scent of wet leaves, bark, and soil mixed with the soft sweetness of the curing vanilla beans created a calming and almost meditative atmosphere.”

Behind every single vanilla bean, a careful human touch

Vanilla is so popular and familiar these days, whether in cakes, ice cream, or shower gels, that we can overlook the remarkable, delicate work its production requires. What makes it so precious (and expensive) is the extraordinary amount of human care involved in its production. It’s no wonder that it’s one of the most expensive spices in the world after saffron. It’s much more than just a crop; it’s a true craft.

In Mexico, the orchid’s native habitat, Vanilla planifolia flowers coexist with their pollinator, a very rare bee called “melipona”. Only pollination can make the vanilla orchid produce a bean that can eventually be cured into an aromatic spice. Once humans figured out how to reproduce this pollination themselves, the vines could be exported to other regions that lacked the special bee.

A fortunate discovery, but much more complex than it seems: vanilla flowers only bloom for a day, and that’s when the pollination must occur. During the flowering season, farmers must therefore carefully scrutinise each vine to spot open flowers, then pollinate them by hand, one by one. It is a precise and repetitive task that demands great patience and constant attention.

Anya recalls: “I tried hand pollination alongside farmers, a delicate and highly skilled process. The flower is intricate, so you have to use a small pin or carved stick to gently lift the rostellum, which is the flap separating the male and female parts of the flower, before carefully pressing them together by hand. Timing is critical: if heavy rain follows pollination, the pod may never develop. Even under ideal conditions, pollination success averages around 70%.”

Once successfully pollinated, long green pods develop from the orchids. They are harvested individually after about 9 months, at the perfect stage of maturity. They then go through a long and complex curing process involving blanching, sweating, drying, conditioning, and careful sorting. This process can take several more months and is essential in developing vanilla’s rich aroma and deep flavour.

Far from Mexico: the Ugandan vanilla

On top of such delicate and precise pollination, the vanilla orchid requires very specific growing conditions: warmth, humidity, filtered sunlight, and plenty of shade. Instead of growing in open fields, it thrives in biodiverse environments where vines can climb trees and develop slowly over time.

This is why it is grown in only a handful of countries with tropical climates. Madagascar accounts for around 80% of global production, followed by Indonesia, Tanzania, Papua New Guinea, India, Uganda, and Mexico. Very small quantities are also grown in a few other countries.

There are three major species: V. planifolia (sometimes called bourbon), V. tahitensis and V. pompona. At Lush, we use planifolia vanilla beans sourced from producers in Uganda and Tanzania, working with partners who place a strong emphasis on building long-term relationships with farmers and supporting local communities. When needed, we also source vanilla absolute produced from beans grown in Madagascar through trusted supply partners.

Uganda started investing in vanilla production in earnest in the mid-1990s through a USAID project. It is estimated that the country produced up to 400 tons in its best years, significantly benefiting its growers.

Unfortunately, with market fluctuations and variable crop yields, growing vanilla can be a bit of a gamble. But when conditions are good, it can be truly life-changing for many farmers, creating new opportunities and bringing meaningful improvements to their livelihoods and daily lives.

Our suppliers work closely with cooperatives and social enterprises that support vanilla growers across Uganda. They encourage farmers to cultivate vanilla within agroforestry systems, growing it alongside crops such as coffee, cocoa, and bananas to help support biodiversity and create more resilient farming landscapes.

Stronger together: Cooperatives in Western Uganda

One of our Ugandan suppliers is a curing facility. In practical terms, this means they buy green vanilla beans from farmers and then process them, using their own methods, into the fragrant, dark brown beans that Lush purchases. The green beans come from a union of farmers’ cooperatives representing 13 primary cooperative societies across the region, including the districts of Kasese, Kabarole, Ntoroko, and Bundibugyo. This union has over 2,500 members who cultivate, among other things, vanilla, cocoa, and coffee. It was in the majestic setting of the Rwenzori Mountains, also known as the Mountains of the Moon, that Anya met some of these members.

“During shortage years, vanilla prices go so high that the threat of smuggling is very real; some farmers even have to sleep with their crops to protect them. So, I thought they would be reluctant to show us their production,” Anya explains, “but it was quite the opposite; they welcomed us very warmly, proud of their plantations and practices.”

While visiting the farms, she felt very privileged to be there: “We were surrounded by deep green vegetation and rich red soil. Everything felt incredibly alive. The vanilla vines twisted naturally around tree trunks, climbing upwards through the shade. I could see where farmers had carefully tied the vines for support, guiding them as they grew. I was told stories about vanilla vines that had “run away”, climbing so high into the trees that farmers could no longer reach the flowers to pollinate them.”

The cooperative was originally formed by vanilla-growing communities seeking better market access and fairer prices for their crops. Established in 2005 and officially registered as a union in 2014, it supports farmers through training, improved production and quality practices, and access to wider international markets. The union is Fair Trade certified, and some member groups also hold organic certifications.

Smallholders, big value

Another of our vanilla suppliers operates as a social enterprise, working with smallholder farmers across Tanzania and Uganda. Originally established to help farmers diversify their income through high-value crops such as vanilla, the project began in 2011 with just a small number of vanilla vines distributed to encourage planting.

Since then, the network has grown significantly and now works with more than 6,500 registered smallholder farmers across both countries. They promote agroforestry systems by encouraging the planting of shade trees and the creation of diverse mixed-crop landscapes.

Agroforestry is a farming method that creates systems around trees, where each plant benefits from the others. Vanilla, for example, benefits from the trunks and shade of fruit trees, while the trees themselves benefit from the coolness provided by the vanilla’s leafy coverage. These forest landscapes help mitigate the impacts of climate change while supporting both local communities and East Africa’s biodiversity.

Last stop: France

Unless it’s in powder form, the vanilla we purchase needs to make one last stop before it reaches our manufacturing sites in Poole, Dorset. The beans are shipped to Grasse in France, where they are transformed into an absolute by our partner.

After being mixed with a solvent and “washed” with ethanol, the carefully hand-pollinated, grown and cured Ugandan and Tanzanian beans yield a thick, dark-brown extract. This extract is the irresistible and deliciously fragrant absolute we love to use at Lush for its depth, warmth, sweetness, and comfort.

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One refrain I often hear in the treatment room is the desire for “perfect skin”. We’re in a heightened period of skin perfection and beauty standards which can cause lots of confusion when it comes to skincare routines.

I’m Amity Murray, Lush’s Skincare Ambassador. Known for my “magic hands”, I have been an esthetician in New York City for the past 20 years. I work with safe and effective products to help clients find ideal routines paired with the most nurturing and relaxing facial treatments.

I am here to help dispel some common skincare myths as well as help you choose your skincare routine with confidence despite all the noise.

'I WANT TO READ ON THE APP'

There are a few reasons why things might feel more intense lately. We have more access to information. We’re walking around with tiny computers glued to our hands. We’re flooded with marketing on social media, Instagram and TikTok. There’s also an increased speed at which skincare companies are producing and marketing new products.

It’s not ALL inherently bad, but I want my clients to feel empowered and not pressured by their skincare choices.

My goal is to help break through the overwhelm and make skincare feel simpler with some practical advice and that starts by debunking some common myths.

Shall we proceed?

Myth 1: More Products Means Better Skin

A 10-step skincare routine is not for everyone. You need a daily routine that works for you and your skin. Focus on the basics first: cleansing, toning, moisturising and sun protection. You can consider adding targeted products depending on your skin goals.

Think about yourself, your lifestyle and what you will actually use before buying new products. Skincare can be simple and still be effective. The best skincare is skincare that you actually use daily — morning and night.

Myth 2: Viral Ingredients Work for Everyone

Not every ingredient and product is right for everyone. Everyone has their own unique skin and bodies. We have to think critically when it comes to viral or trending skincare advice. Consider the source you are learning information from. Knowing yourself, your goals and your lifestyle will help guide you to the most optimal skincare choices.

Myth 3: Expensive Skincare Is Always Better

The price of skincare is another huge myth as some of the most expensive products are all about name recognition and marketing. Some things to consider when purchasing products are: ingredients, formulations, efficacy and whether they address a genuine need for your skin.

Myth 4: If You Don’t See Results Immediately, Your Skincare Isn’t Working

Realistically, it can take 4-6 weeks to see how a product works on your skin. Consistency does matter when using skincare because you cannot see how a product affects your skin without using it routinely. Constantly changing products does not allow you to be able to see how a product works long term.

Your skincare goals will determine how you treat your skin and what products you will prioritise. And while it may take 4-6 weeks to start seeing the impacts, it can take three to six months before you start seeing the best results.

How Can You Tell if Skincare Advice Is Trustworthy?

Always consider the source when getting information online. Is the person giving the advice an expert, esthetician, doctor or scientist? Or are they simply trying to sell us something?

Another tactic often used in advertising is fear mongering. Are you being scared into buying something? Does the product seem too good to be true? Does it promise instant transformation? If so, most likely it’s a trend-driven scam.

When deciding if you need something, you need to consider your skin, your goal and your lifestyle before adding to cart. Critical thinking is everything these days and, when in doubt, consult an expert!

What Does Your Skin Really Need?

Having a solid fundamental skincare routine is critical for healthy skin. Having the fundamentals down leaves room for more if needed. You can always add targeted treatments depending on your specific skin and your goals.

Things to consider when thinking about your routine:

1. How does your skin normally feel and act?

2. How many steps realistically will you do daily both morning and night?

3. How many products fit into your lifestyle and budget?

4. Do you have any diagnosed skincare conditions?

5. What are one or two priorities that you want to target with your routine?

6. Do you have any allergies?

7. Are you vegan?

8. Are you pregnant or trying to conceive?

9. Asking yourself these questions will help guide you to the best skincare choices for you.

Healthy Skin Starts With Consistency, Not Perfection

Perfect skin is a myth. Let go of perfection and seek to take good care of yourself, including your skin, as part of true self care. Understanding yourself and your skin will help you make the most thoughtful skincare choices that you can stick with.

By Amity Murray, Lush Skincare Ambassador

Year on year, the evidence that Big Tech platforms do us more harm than good is mounting. We all know that social media has been designed to keep us scrolling, and with addictive algorithms that track our every move to keep us ever-engaged, it can feel largely out of our control.

Logging off can feel like an impossible task, and rather than going all or nothing, a balanced relationship with the digital technologies that we now depend on for our social, professional and cultural lives is the goal.

Here are my top six ways to reclaim connection and embodiment in today’s digital world:

Stay equipped - Carry a book or other form of analogue entertainment with you everywhere you go, be it a journal, sudoku or your latest knitting project. I’ve found this helps me stop myself from passively scrolling in my free moments and opt for a mindful activity instead. Giving yourself an alternative to the endless scroll is the best incentive!

Adopt social media office hours - The same way we have boundaries for our work lives so that we can fully switch off, we need boundaries for our digital lives. No one expects you to throw your phone away, but by assigning certain windows of time to being online, you can avoid content burnout and be fully present in what you do outside of that time. Choose an hour a day to scroll freely without judgement, but when it’s time to log off, leave your phone in another room.

Host your own Logging Off Club - The rise of social media has allowed us to connect with people we might never have otherwise come across, without the limitations of our physical location. But at the same time, we’ve seen the decline of third spaces and the underfunding of community services, with our local sense of community fading away. Host a phone-free gathering in your local cafe, library or park and start to revive the IRL connection we so need!

Screen free sleep - We’ve all been guilty of a late night scroll, but a good night’s rest is one of the most important factors for our wellbeing. Give your phone a bedtime, and better yet, don’t bring it into the bedroom full stop. You may need to get yourself a cheap alarm clock, but if you are guilty of reaching for your phone first thing in the morning, this hack can also help you break that habit, as well as late-night scrolling.

Look up - So many of us now walk around with our heads in our screens and plugs in our ears, totally disembodied from our surroundings. Set an intention of going for 1 noticing walk per week, and leave your phone at home. From hearing birdsong to good old people-watching, you’ll be surprised how much you see and feel when you actually pay attention.

Talk to strangers - So many of us report feeling lonely, despite how many people we’re constantly ‘connected’ with. All it takes is a couple of positive interactions with strangers to change that around entirely. Recently, whenever I feel pulled to, I’ll lean into talking to strangers. Whether complimenting an outfit, asking for directions or just wishing someone a good rest of their day, it’s transformative not only for your mood but has helped me feel so much more like a part of my local community. Talk to a stranger once a week, observe how it makes you feel and note down what magical moments of connection you end up having.

Discover Logging Off Clubs

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